Haria | The Mothersland

After a few days in Ambon City and a one day visit to Kampong Waai we had moved onwards to Haria. Haria is a village on the island Saparua which was a one hour boattrip from the main island Ambon. Visiting this place means going back to my roots from mom’s side of the family.

Before the break of dawn we went to the harbour of Tulehu to buy us boattickets and take the fast ferry to Saparua. This harbour was crazy, so many people everywhere! The wheather wasn’t that good so hopefully this was going to be an easy boatride without too many big waves and luckily it was. As we got closer to Haria I saw big orange letters on shore saying ‘Pelabuhan Haria’; ‘Haria Harbour’. How awesome to arrive at the mothersland. Since the boat was filled with heaps of people we decided to wait a little bit before parting. As we got off my mom’s niece was already waiting for us. ‘Tante Lena!’ she yelled as she saw us and then it was all hugs and kisses. From the harbour it was only a very short walk towards the house. So amazing to see this family house for the first time ever. I had heard my mom tell me about it since she used to go here quite often before I was born and my uncles go here on a regular base so I had heard a lot about this place already. It was already amazing to actually see it for the first time and as we got inside and I finally set foot in the house a lot went through my mind. This was the place where my grandfather had walked around in his early life, this was the place where he and his siblings grew up. This used to be home to my grandfather untill he had left this place. The place immediately felt like home, it’s strange but somehow it felt familiar even though I had never been there before. I could feel my grandfather’s energy all around me, I felt pride but I also felt him being proud for me being in this house at last.

The Family House in Haria

Insanely beautiful scenery

The next few days were filled with a shitload of rain but we were lucky enough to still be able to visit other towns around this place. This is not a place where you can just pick up the phone and order a taxi or hop on the metro. No, we had found ourselves someone with a decent car and who was willing to drive us to some places we would like to visit and off we went. Oh My Goat, Saparua is such a beautiful island. Driving around I was in awe of the beauty around me, everything is so green and so untouched. This is a whole different world, the scenery is amazingly beautiful. You could snap screensavers continuously when driving around here.

First stop was Fort Duurstede, a fort that still stands from when the Dutch ruled these islands. The Dutch used to rule these islands for it’s spices and to protect it from others they had built forts and these are still standing here. It’s amazing to visit a place that holds so much history and still stands, it’s like you’re walking through a history book. Besides that, the oceanview from this fort was to die for; so amazingly beautiful. Outside the fort there’s a beautiful sports field with a huge Pattimura statue; Pattimura was a former sergeant major who had led a rebellion against Dutch occupation in 1817.

Fort Duurstede

After our stop at Fort Duurstede we continued the road towards the village of Booi. This place is known for its steps. This complete village was build upwards, to reach every house it takes a few steps or more. Imagine getting here to visit family and then having to carry all of your luggage up! We came here to see the familyhouse of my mom’s grandmother. We did find the house but there was nobody home unfortunately. We decided to take just a short walk through Booi, so with all of those steps taken my excercise for the week was complete.

Booi and its steps

After Booi we headed to Saparua a somewhat bigger town where people from the surrounding villages go to for their groceries or if they just need anything they cannot get in their village. Here we did some groceries for my mom’s niece so that she would have plenty of basics again for some time. It was kinda funny because everywhere we would go people would really look at us knowing that we’re from the Netherlands. People here know that there’s a community of Moluccan people living in the Netherlands and that every now and then some of these ‘orang Belanda’ come back to the islands to visit family. At first I was very uncomfortable with the stares because it’s not something they will try to hide, no they will literally just stare at you in your face. After a while it wasn’t that uncomfortable anymore, just smile and say hi and everyone smiles back.

During our stay here in Haria we did something special. We visited an old lady that I had last seen when I was a mini. This lady used to live in the Netherlands and me and my mom would regularly visit her where I would play in her backyard and be pampered with hot tea and cake. Untill one day she decided to move back to Maluku. The last time I had seen her was when we said goodbye to her 24 years ago so when I heard that she was living in Haria I really wanted to go and see her and so we did. Some people in the village were so kind to take us with them and cross the bay in their ‘kapal speed’, a little speed boat. In two minutes we were on the other side and walked towards her home. There she was standing on her veranda, she had already heard that we were in Haria so she yelled ‘Lenaaa, Bithaaaa!’. Goosebumps went all over my body, how crazy is it to be able to see her again after so many years. Tears went down my cheeks when I saw her and she hugged me tight.

We spent the afternoon sitting and chatting at her place, it was basically 24 years to catch up on.

Leaving Haria was bitterwseet, I am so gratefull that I was able to visit this place that holds my origins but at the same time I was sad leaving it behind. The best way to describe this is that I now have another place to call home, but unfortunately it is so freakin far away. I will carry this place in my heart, knowing that Haria is out there and that I am connected to it makes me proud and makes me feel complete. I am thankfull to have set foot in my grandfather’s familyhouse and to have slept there for four nights. This place is part of me now.

Grandfather's backyard